“Water is the driving force of all nature.” – Leonardo da Vinci

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of a waterfall’s delicate mist gently floating all around you, in contrast to its undeniable force. This striking opposition is precisely why waterfalls can so easily capture your heart and imagination. And where best to experience this magical energy than amongst the most breathtaking waterfalls in South America. 

There are almost too many out-of-this-world waterfalls in South America to choose from, but our travel experts have narrowed it down to the top twelve. From Argentina to Chile, through Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and Brazil, all the way to the tippy-top of Colombia, each of these cascading beauties offers something unique and adds an authentic experience to your private journey.

The top twelve waterfalls in South America 

We have broken our list of the twelve must-see South America waterfalls down by country, starting at the southern tip of the continent in Argentina and working our way up to Colombia. And the draws of each waterfall range from the geography of that particular region to the size of the waterfall itself and the local culture and folklore surrounding these natural wonders.

Argentina | Los Amigos Waterfall and Chorillo del Salto

These first two Argentine waterfalls can be found in one of nature’s most coveted playgrounds: Patagonia! This incredible 260,000 square mile expanse between Argentina and Chile has become synonymous with eco-conscious travel in the past couple of decades and remains one of the most spectacular demonstrations of the natural world in all its glory.

To get to the Los Amigos Waterfall, you must travel to the world’s most southernmost city in Tierra del Fuego, called Ushuaia. Ushuaia is a spectacular destination in and of itself, home to five quirky penguin species, including the Magellanic penguin, endemic to Patagonia. The trail to Los Amigos Waterfall is 2.7 miles through breathtaking Tierra del Fuego scenery.

Further north lies the Chorillo del Salto, also known as the Cascada del Salto, in the town of El Chalten. The Chorillo del Salto was formed from the melted glacial snow accumulating in the grand Fitz Roy Massif. Exploring this waterfall also means hiking through the starkly beautiful glacial mountain landscape of El Chalten.

Argentina + Brazil | Iguazú Falls 

The next waterfall on our list may need little to no introduction: Iguazú Falls! Many people plan their personalized travel experience in South America around the great Iguazú Falls, and with good reason, seeing as it is the world’s largest waterfall system. Argentina claims roughly 80% of the 275 individual waterfalls, and Brazil the remaining 20%.

Our travel designers recommend staying physically on the Argentine side because you can make a simple day trip to the Brazil side to see the renowned Devil’s Throat waterfall. And the National Park of Puerto Iguazú in Argentina deserves to be well-traversed.

Chile | Cascada Apoquindo, Salto Grande, and Salto el Claro

Visiting Cascada Apoquindo in Chile is an excellent addition to your private itinerary, especially if you are also planning on spending some concentrated time in Santiago, Chile’s capital city. Cascada Apoquindo is in the Parque Natural de Aguas de Ramón east of Santiago and lying against the Andes Mountain Range. If you love multi-day hiking trips with the reward of a waterfall at the end, the Cascada Apoquindo is for you!

Getting back into the Patagonia region, but this time within the magnificent Torres del Paine National Park, we encourage you to consider the lookout over the Salto Grande waterfall. Salto Grande means “big jump” in Spanish, and this particular big jump of gushing water lies against the stunning Pehoe Lake. But the water itself flows from another lake, Lake Nordenskjöld, before falling 10 meters into Pehoe.

Our final must-see waterfall in Chile is called Salto el Claro, which lies in Pucón City, in the Araucanía region, home to Villarrica Volcano and beautiful Villarrica Lake. Salto el Claro, also known as the “hidden waterfall,” is an off-the-beaten-path destination for the ages. You also have the option of arriving by car, hiking, or biking from Pucón – a great choice for some added adventure!

Bolivia | Las Siete Cascadas

Sucre, Bolivia is an up-and-coming tourist destination for many reasons, including the footprints of 15 different dinosaur species and precious colonial architecture. However, there are also ample opportunities to escape into nature. If you’re looking for another easy day trip while in Sucre to dive into Bolivia’s natural surroundings, hike a little, and see a precious waterfall, Las Siete Cascadas hits the spot.

Peru | Gocta Waterfall

Gocta Waterfall in the Chachapoyas region of Peru was only rediscovered and made known to the international community in 2005. It also happens to be the world’s third tallest waterfall! This impactful water flow falls from 2,530 feet high and can be seen from several unique vantage points. You can either hike or horseback ride to Gocta; and for a luxury travel experience, you can stay in the Gocta Andes Lodge.

Ecuador | Peguche Waterfall 

Reaching the small but mighty country of Ecuador further north, you have the chance to visit a sacred waterfall with immense cultural significance in the Otavalo province. The Peguche waterfall is about 50 feet tall and most known as an indigenous ceremonial site, where community members cleanse their bodies before the Sun festival called San Juan or Inti Raymi (in Peru).

Otavalo is also home to the largest indigenous market in South America. So, you can easily pair your time here with a visit to the market before or after your hike to Peguche with your local guide, who will regale you with the captivating legends also associated with this waterfall.

Colombia | Caño Cristales, Tequendama Falls, and La Chorrera waterfall 

You will find the final three waterfalls on our list in Colombia, and they are nothing short of striking. Let’s start with Caño Cristales, which is technically not a waterfall but an ethereal multi-colored river. Traversing the otherworldly landscape of Caño Cristales, you will notice baby waterfalls here and there, so we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave it out; what a unique natural phenomenon!

This brings us to the Tequendama Falls, also known as the Salto de Tequendama. A visit to Tequendama makes for a memorable vacation because of the chilling and thought to be haunted Hotel Tequendama overlooking the falls. Local Muisca indigenous communities also believe the legend of this site that their Gods formed the falls to alleviate the flooding that prevented them from building their villages.

Finally, we have La Chorrera waterfall, which is by far Colombia’s highest waterfall and sixth-highest in Latin America at almost 2,000 feet. After a serene two-hour hike through the cloud forest of Colombia, you will reach La Chorrera and also pass some exciting sights on the way, such as the “monkey stones” – Simian-like rock formations – and another small waterfall called El Chiflon.

So, just this once, we encourage you to go against the words of the wise women of TLC and go chasing waterfalls in South America! Please contact us today to learn more about incorporating some of these forces of nature into your curated journey through South America.

Carnival is a festival of many names. It is referred to as Fat Tuesday in English, Mardi-Gras in French, and Carnaval in Spanish or Portuguese. But whichever word you use, Carnival has become an exciting international phenomenon extending from both Catholic and, many scholars think, ancient Rome or even Sumer cultural traditions.

Ecuador Carnival (Carnaval or Carnavales) is one of the nation’s most electric celebrations, with residents anxiously marking their calendars in preparation every year. Let’s take a look into what makes Ecuador Carnival tick compared to the layered string beads and Cajun feasts in New Orleans Mardi-Gras, or fantastical feather costumes of Brazilian Carnaval. Perhaps, you will feel so inspired to plan your next Ecuador trip during Carnival!  

What is the Ecuador Carnival, and why is it held?

Ecuador Carnival aligns with the Roman Catholic calendar and tradition. But what’s truly special and unique about Carnavales in Ecuador lies in how local communities have always made the tradition their own, mixing Catholic origin post-conquest with pre-Hispanic cultures and traditions.

The earliest recorded evidence of Carnival in Ecuador is from newspapers dating back to 1860. These stories cite people celebrating by having water fights on the coast and flour fights in the Andean highlands. Then from the early 1900s, there are reports of kitchen staff and cooks saving their eggshells until Carnival to fill with colored water, seal with wax, and use in a good-natured water fight during the celebration.

Today, Ecuador Carnival means two full days of unbridled joy manifested in water and foam fights, allegorical figures on parade, and lots of feasting before Lent. For Kichwa communities in the Ecuadorian Andes, it is also a time to celebrate the end of the solar year and give thanks to Mother Earth.

When do people celebrate Carnival in Ecuador?

According to the Roman Catholic Calendar, the two official days of Ecuador Carnival are the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday in late February or early March. And until 1963, Kichwa communities of the Sierra (highlands) celebrated Carnival a month earlier in connection with the Pawkar Raymi festival, in which they celebrate the solar New Year.

1963 marked the year that the dictator Ramón Castro Jijón forcibly changed the date of Carnival in the Andes to give preference to the Church and the Catholic meaning of the celebration before Lent. However, despite this discriminatory ruling, Kiwcha communities never stopped celebrating Pawkar Raymi and still do every year to mark the solar New Year.

Must see places during the Ecuadorian Carnavales

Ecuador is an incredibly culturally and geographically diverse country, and it is also quite a compact one. So, the fact that Carnival regional celebrations in Ecuador are as similar as they are distinct makes for an enlightening and rich experience.

– Quito

As Ecuador’s high-altitude capital, Carnival celebrations in Quito do not disappoint. The most typical signs of Carnival in Quito include 1) children of all ages wielding cans of foam and not afraid to spray any unsuspecting passerby, 2) lively water fights, and 3) surprising flour bombs.

– Guaranda

Guaranda, together with Ambato, are the Ecuadorian regions known for the most representative Carnival celebrations. In Guaranda, they pull out all the stops. We’re talking streamers filling every corner, flower pedals galore, flour and water games, lavish floats promenading through the streets, dances, and live music.

No one sleeps, and they don’t care! The giddy happiness of being covered from head to toe in a combination of water, confetti, foam, and powders is only matched by the incredible parade of food. Carnavales in Guaranda is the most anticipated event of the year.

– Ambato

Ambato, Ecuador, celebrates Carnival with their own regional name for the festival: La Fiesta de las Frutas y las Flores (The Fruit and Flower Festival). In Ambato, you won’t need to dodge any water balloons, buckets, nor foam spray, because, in Ambato, people only play Carnaval games with flowers, as well as eat plenty of locally harvested fruit, and dance the night away.

– Guayaquil

Being on the coast and having one of the most pleasant climates in Ecuador affords Guayaquil an entirely different kind of Carnival. Thus, Guayaquil holds the Ecuador Carnival, probably most reminiscent of Brazil.

Carnival in Guayaquil wouldn’t be complete without the famous parades showcasing la reina de carnaval (the queen of Carnival) and the local city mascots of Juan y Juanita Pueblo. There is also a parade dedicated to ornately decorated giant ships representing different aspects of Guayaquil local culture; this parade is called el naútico en la isla Trinitaria.

Other fun tidbits about the Ecuador Carnival

In addition to the raucous flour and water games, ornate decorations, larger-than-life floral arrangements, never-ending parades, and palpable excitement in the air, Ecuador Carnival would never be the same without specific foods, music, dance, and traditional costume.

– Food and beverage

Each region boasts its own distinct recipes and variations on the classic foods served during Ecuador Carnival. Some of these classics include la fritada, savory fried pork stewed with orange juice, cumin, garlic, onion, and other local spices, and the chigüil, a snack made of cornmeal, stuffed with cheese and wrapped in corn leaves – not the husk, but the green leaves of the stalk.

Throughout the country, people drink plenty of beer and other types of recognizable libations during carnavales; however, the two beverages represent the festivities above the rest: jucho and canelazo. The former is a hot non-alcoholic beverage made from a type of black cherries called capulí in Ecuador and Peru, apricots, and plenty of spices like cinnamon and clove, while the latter is a hot alcoholic beverage made from cane alcohol, cinnamon, and other spices.

– Popular music and dance

Dance and live music are ubiquitous during Ecuador Carnival. Coordinated dancers lead the way, promenading down each street as live bands trail behind each dance troupe. Every individual becomes entranced by the local melodies.

On the Ecuadorian coast, you will hear traditional Afro-Ecuadorian sounds of the marimba. In contrast, in the central Andes, traditional flutes, string instruments, and bombo drums dominate. Guaranda even has a traditional song dedicated to Carnival with the refrain, “Qué bonito es Carnaval,” How beautiful is Carnaval!

– Traditional costumes

Just like the party itself, the costumes are loud and incredibly colorful. The dancers color-coordinate within their troupe, so if the dress is predominantly yellow, they will wear yellow hats and plenty of embroidered flowers. Some costumes are even meant to represent giant flowers or fruits of all kinds.

If you’re thinking of taking a trip to the equator, visiting the Galapagos, and/or any of the other incredible sites Ecuador has to offer (such as Volcano Alley!), consider coordinating it with Carnival.

For just a couple days in late February or early March, depending on the year, you can indulge your inner child, let loose in the streets, dancing and playing, and living for the festive moment! Contact us to learn more about how to incorporate Ecuador Carnival into your next vacation.

On the heels of Peru’s 200th birthday, we feel like celebrating! And as Peru’s top travel agency, our entire team at Kuoda Travel lives and breathes Peruvian pride. In this article, we want to share all of the ways Peru is one of the world’s most exciting travel destinations.

From internationally-renowned cuisine to confounding Inca architecture, family-fun activities, natural magnificence, adventure tours, and a whole lot more, Peru really does have something for anyone looking to make wonderful memories, diving into immersive experiences in Peru!

1. Lots of Adventure!

If you are an adrenaline junkie, or even just someone who likes to sprinkle a little adventure on their travels now and again, look no further than Peru for your next trip. Kuoda’s adventure itinerary is fully customizable (like all of our itineraries), and our travel experts know exactly how to personalize each program to align with your specific adventurous side.

Do you like to kayak or stand-up paddle? You can do both on Lake Piuray in the Sacred Valley, completely surrounded by glaciers. How about tandem paragliding? Lima’s coast offers a magical view for paragliding and surfing, for that matter. For even better surfing, head north to the idyllic beaches of Mancora and Tumbes. Mountain biking in the Andes is another favorite, and of course, trekking.

For multi-day treks, you have a couple fantastic options. The Inca Trail needs no introduction and is one of those authentic experiences that will stay with you for a lifetime. In addition to the Inca Trail, you can embark on the Lares Trek, a community-based hiking experience that allows you to connect with local culture, or the Salkantay Trek to get a look at some of Peru’s sacred glaciers up close.

2. Ancient civilizations – Inca and Pre-Inca

We can’t talk about the wonders of Peru without touching upon the awe-inspiring architecture and artifacts of the Inca Empire and civilizations predating the Incas. Cusco was the former capital of Tahuantinsuyo (the Quechua name for the Inca Empire), so if you’re a history or archaeology buff, you’ll want to spend some time here during your private tour with Kuoda. 

The veritable zigzag fortress of Sacsayhuaman can be found on the outskirts of Cusco city. Walking down from Sacsayhuaman, you will encounter living Inca foundations in the city’s historic center. Qorikancha, for example, is an incredible Inca temple that was completely hidden and covered by a Spanish colonial church called Santo Domingo and revealed again during the big earthquake of 1950.

The great mystery remains how exactly they moved the boulders between 90 and 125 tons and then carefully nestled them together without any space peeking through. Their architecture also famously aligns with the natural surroundings and solar calendar; nothing about Inca architecture is by chance. This is especially noteworthy in the Sacred Valley sites and Machu Picchu.

If you want to go further back than the Incas in your travels, you can take a 4–5-day trip up and down the coast from Lima. The ancient civilizations of Chan Chan and Caral lie north of Lima, dating back to 600 and 5,000 years ago, respectively. And the famous Nazca lines, giant geoglyphs permanently etched in the sand lie south of Lima and date back to 2,000 years ago.

3. Commune with nature

In the uncertain age we find ourselves in, and most of the world still in an active battle with COVID-19, we’ve learned that now more than ever is the time to re-connect with nature. Peru offers a unique backdrop for eco-conscious travel because you can get up close and personal with the stoic Andes Mountains, the curious Amazon jungle, and the immense coastal desert all in one trip.

In Peru, nature is still very much in the foreground of daily life for so many people, and this connection is contagious. At Kuoda Travel, we keep this in mind when creating each and every private travel experience, prioritizing regenerative tourism, and allowing space for our guests to travel with purpose.

4. Rich living culture

Peru is a country like too many in this globalized world that still feels the aftershock of some tough institutions extending from the past – namely imperialism, colonialism, colorism, and sexism. But that’s why it’s even more important to reflect on and highlight Peru’s diverse cultural forces that have lifted the country up despite decades of injustices.

Quechua and Aymara communities of the Andes, Amazon indigenous groups, Afro-Peruvian, and Japanese and Chinese-Peruvian citizens come together as the country’s heartbeat. We always aim to honor Peru’s living cultural diversity through our highly personalized programs every step of the journey. In addition, we collaboratively work with local communities so they have a platform to connect with travelers and share their unique stories and cultural heritage.

5. Some of the world’s best food!

Hands down, Peru claims the best food in South America due to diverse cultural traditions, endemic ingredients, and a highly complex flavor profile. Peruvian restaurants dot almost every corner of the globe at this point, so you could seek it out wherever you are, but why not take the opportunity to try the real deal on a private journey to Peru?

One of Peru’s most coveted dishes, lomo saltado, was inspired by Peruvian Chinese restaurants called Chifa. Lomo means tenderloin, and saltado means “jumping.” This dish is cooked in a wok with green onions, tomatoes, Peruvian aji amarillo (yellow chili pepper), onion, soy sauce, vinegar, and oyster sauce, then served with French fries and white rice. It is the ultimate Peruvian stir-fry!

And most superfoods, some you might have already heard about, are geographically from Peru! Quinoa, amaranth (kiwicha), Andean Lupin (tarwi), maca (aka the “Peruvian Ginseng”), Sacha Inchi filled with Omega-3, the Camu Camu fruit chock full of Vitamin C, and over 4,000 varieties of potatoes!

6. The perfect romantic getaway destination

If you are a couple looking to spend your honeymoon or anniversary somewhere unforgettable, Peru should be at the top of your list! Kuoda Travel is the best luxury travel company in Peru, so we know a thing or two about how to make your trip the most romantic it can be – it all comes down to the details.

Imagine a riverside picnic for two in the Sacred Valley, the Andes Mountains on all sides, followed by a couples massage in the award-winning Kallpa Spa in the five-star resort Tambo del Inka. Then you splurge on a luxury train ride on the Hiram Bingham and a night at the Sanctuary Lodge, the only hotel next to the Machu Picchu citadel. And you return to Cusco to your incredible room in Belmond Palacio Nazarenas.

You can also opt for an intimate Amazon cruise in the northern jungle region of Iquitos and finally complete your celebration of love by spending four sun-soaked days on the peaceful Mancora beaches, horseback riding into the sunset.

7. Up-and-coming LGBT destination

LGBT movements continue to inspire positive change throughout South America. The LGBT community of Peru is not only part of this movement but has also been fighting for their rights from the fascinating Amazon city of Iquitos for decades. Iquitos has been a safe haven for LGBT individuals across the country since the 1980s and continues to be a welcome environment to residents and travelers alike.

The 2021 Peru elections have also made history electing the very first openly lesbian congresswoman in Peru, Susel Paredes of the Purple Party. Kuoda Travel not only supports these initiatives pulsing through the country, but we are also members of the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) to ensure that all of our guests feel safe during their travels in Peru.

8. A perfect destination for families

In recent years, Peru tourism has not only catered to families but has started to excel at it! As a responsible travel agency, we are sensitive to families’ needs during their trip to make it a fulfilling travel experience for everyone.

Our family tours include interactive half-day activities embedded throughout the itinerary to keep you moving and the little ones engaged. Depending on how old your children are, you could try zip-line, horseback riding, stand-up paddleboarding, river-rafting, chocolate-making, communing with exciting wildlife in the Amazon Rainforest, and more!

Our team of guides is incredible, and we work with quite a few who are great with kids. They know how to bring Peruvian culture and history alive in their storytelling and don’t hold back with the fantastical details. They also know when to pause and let you share these special moments together, creating wonderful memories you’ll cherish as a family for life.

If we haven’t convinced you yet, please contact us, so we can gush even more about the endless possibilities for your curated journey to Peru. This is what we love doing, crafting meaningful experiences for anyone and everyone to connect with our Peru. ¡Qué viva Perú!

The Galapagos Islands have become synonymous with biodiversity and wildlife conservation, and with good reason. This 19-island archipelago is home to over 4,000 animal species, 40% of which are endemic – meaning they are found nowhere else in the world! When Charles Darwin landed in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island in 1835, his theory of evolution could finally take root and start to materialize. And the rest is history.

Today, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno continues to serve as the Galapagos’ capital city and port and is the second-most populated point in the archipelago after Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. But the laid-back surfer energy of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno compliments the remaining islands nicely, where the animals reign and the humans are simply guests in their kingdom.

There are quite a few reasons why an overnight, or two, in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the perfect addition to your Galapagos adventure. In this article, we would like to highlight the following four reasons in particular!

4 reasons to discover Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Ecuador)

1. Pairing Puerto Baquerizo Moreno with Guayaquil

The only way to directly fly into or out of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is through Ecuador’s coastal city, Guayaquil. And Guayaquil, in its own right, has so much to offer in terms of beautiful weather, diverse sights, and experiences on Ecuador’s pacific coast. Some of the top Guayaquil attractions include the breathtaking beaches of General Villamil, the Malecon 2000 lively boulevard, and the fantastic restaurants stocked with the freshest seafood and traditional Ecuadorian dishes.

Guayaquil is also Ecuador’s largest city. Their international airport receives just as many, if not more, flights from the United States as Quito. The direct domestic flight from Guayaquil to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is just about two hours. Whereas if you were to start in Quito, you will always have a layover in Guayaquil before arriving in Puerto Baquerizo; and the total travel time is more or less six hours.

2. Unique and luxurious accommodation in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno hotels do not disappoint! A trip to the Galapagos Islands means you will either be taking a cruise from one island to another or staying in a hotel on Puerto Ayora or Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and then taking day excursions to nearby islands. This is called Island Hopping. And many consider Puerto Baquerizo Moreno the best spot for island hopping because of the fabulous accommodations here; the following three hotels are some of our absolute favorites.

The Golden Bay Hotel and Spa strives to provide a five-stay luxurious stay in the Galapagos. Golden Bay offers impeccable hospitality, an excellent restaurant, a minimalist design, and minimal environmental impact as an ecological property focused on sustainability and humanism.

Hotel Casa Opuntia is an intimate first-class hotel with an excellent location. They are positioned right across from some of the most coveted sea kayaking circuits in the archipelago, in addition to two of the best surfing breaks.

Seaside Inn is another quaint property with premium oceanfront views. The hotel itself is actually a boutique villa with a clean-cut modern design and a fabulous pool. Some of their suites even have direct access to this pool and jacuzzi, overlooking the serene ebb and flow of the tide.

3. Prime surfing spot in The Galapagos

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is known for being the adventure activity hub within the entire archipelago and is especially a surfer’s paradise. For catching the best waves, you will want to plan your trip between December and March and head to Punta Carola Beach for its famous ten-foot waves!

There are also plenty of beaches for surfers of all levels, including beginners, such as the Manglecito Beach, typically pumping out six-foot waves, and plenty of sea lions to cheer you on! La Lobería and Tongo Reef are two other popular surfing beaches worth mentioning; all of these beaches are less than thirty minutes away from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno’s city center!

4.Prime diving spot at Kicker Rock

If you are a licensed scuba diver looking to get in some quality advanced diving time while in the Galapagos, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the place to be. There are a couple of exclusive diving cruises you can book well in advance for your trip; however, the benefit of staying on Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is that you will be able to take a diving day-trip to Kicker Rock from your hotel. We still recommend booking this in advance, but the benefit is that spots aren’t as limited.

Kicker Rock is considered the best diving spot in the entire archipelago, right off the coast of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. The depth ranges from 30-130 feet, and the difficulty ranges from moderate to advanced, which is the case for all diving in the Galapagos. What makes Kicker Rock truly special, though, is the abundance of marine wildlife in this one spot. You should expect to see hammerhead sharks, sea turtles, Galapagos sharks, eagle rays, sea lions, and schools of Salema fish, just to name a select few.

So, if you already know you want an island-hopping program and/or have a couple extra days on hand for your Ecuador adventure, consider Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. Whether you are island hopping or someone who enjoys a bit of downtime during your travels, this extremely relaxing place allows you to rest and reflect on your multitude of quirky animal encounters in the Galapagos – with the famous blue-footed boobies, for instance!

Contact us to learn more about customizing your once-in-a-lifetime journey to the Galapagos and how to incorporate its capital port into your bespoke itinerary.

“Paucartambo, Paucartambo, ahí te dejo mi recuerdo, kutimunaykama.” (Paucartambo, Paucartambo, I leave my memories with you, until I long to return) – From the song “Paucartambo”

by Pueblo Andino

In July, this refrain rings through the Peruvian Andes to pay homage to one of the most exciting Peruvian festivals year-round: Virgen del Carmen in Paucartambo. Every year, from July 15th-19th, the Virgen del Carmen Festival in the Cusco province of Paucartambo becomes a major focus for thousands of locals and tourists alike.

This year, the festivities are on hold yet again due to the ongoing struggle with COVID-19 in Peru; however, the spirit of Paucartambo is as alive as ever. In this article, we recount some of the most exciting moments of the Paucartambo festival and relate a bit of its history filled with ornately orchestrated dances, live music, fireworks, and plenty of chela (beer).

Virgen del Carmen History

While the details of the legend escape many festival-goers, the heart of the story is quite consistent. So, how and why did Carmen became la patrona (patron saint) of Paucartambo? As the legend goes, it all started in the 13th century, when a local wealthy woman was heading to Paucartambo to trade a silver dish and came across a beautiful, bodiless head.

More bewildered than frightened, the woman decided to place this head on her dish. Suddenly, the head began to speak to the young woman and said her name was Carmen, and that she was a virgin. The virginal head, so the legend continues, calmly conversed with this woman and told her not to fear her, but quite the opposite: to trust her.

Soon, the people of Paucartambo began to ask Carmen for wishes related to the health and happiness of the community. Then, the residents of Paucartambo witnessed rays of light emanating from her head, and shortly after that, she performed many miracles within the community.

As a result, every year, in the middle of July, the festival lives on to extend Carmen’s bounty of miracles to Paucartambo and now to many other surrounding Peruvian provinces, including Cusco City.

What is the festival in Paucartambo like?

La Virgen del Carmen is not only one of the largest festivals in Peru, but it is also hands-down one of the happiest and most colorful! Annually, people from many distinct corners of Peru (but mainly from the department of Cusco) make their way to Paucartambo. Spiritual, catholic, and cultural pilgrims cram into a town with one central plaza and many narrowly winding streets.

Sleep isn’t a priority for most festival-goers, and often their sleeping arrangements are rudimentary; this said, more complete accommodations will definitely be arranged ahead of time if you book the experience through Kuoda. But don’t be surprised to find most sleeping in tents or in mattresses on balconies that overlook the festivities, or really anywhere with an available square of space.

When you enter the festival, you will find nonstop revelry complete with incessant fireworks and plenty of free-flowing alcohol. The masked characters swirl around you in a perpetual haze of beer, chicha, and pure joy in this five-day celebration of La Gran Mamacha Carmen.

About six o’clock in the evening on the 17th marks the middle of the festival, and there is a definite pause amongst the pilgrims and dancers alike. The wealthier members of Paucartambo are each assigned a dance and donate all of the money necessary towards their party space (which doubles as a lodging space), food, and alcohol.

This phenomenon is called a cargo. And so, all of the dancers rest, eat and drink in their respective cargos at this point of the festival. It is typically acceptable and even expected to “crash,” said cargos. So, don’t be surprised if you are pulled onto the dance floor to try your hand at the twirling huayno steps alongside the dancers.

Principal characters and dances

Much like the Festival of Qoyllur Rit’i (Snow Star in Quechua), which takes place in late May or early June depending on the year, the beautifully adorned comparsas (dance troupes) of Paucartambo and their accompanying band of musicians hardly stop moving. The majority of these sixteen dances in total are caricatures from different periods from Peruvian history.

Although we would love to go into the history, costumes, and unique story behind each dance, we do want to leave some to the imagination for you to discover on your own someday. For now, we would like to highlight six dances in particular: Qhapac Qolla, Saqra, Chunchachas, Qhapaq Negro, Qhapaq Chunchu, and Maqta.

Qhapaq Qolla

Accompanied by llamas and adorned with multi-colored ribbons, the Qhapaq Qolla dancers represent the moment of encuentro (encounter) with the head of La Gran Mamacha Carmen. They symbolize those with the most faith in Carmen, the most devoted.

The Qhapaq Qollas are not alone in telling a rich and intricate story of the history and culture of Peru. Something worth noting is every dance in the festival is unique in movement and costume, and information about the origin and characteristics of each one is provided in the form of large posters on a wall in the central plaza of Paucartambo.

Saqra

Saqra means “devil” or “demon” in Quechua. This particular dance comes from the Republic in Peru, which extended from their year of independence in 1821 to roughly 1930. During this period of Peruvian history, there were quite a few land disputes between Peru and the neighboring countries of Ecuador, Chile, and Bolivia.

The dance itself is a fantastical and fun interpretation of the demons trapped in purgatory. There are three types of devils to contend with, 1) el diablo corporal, 2) la china saqra (the girl devil, as china, means “female” in Quechua), and 4) los soldados. All of the devils dress head to toe in colorful silk garb, resembling a joker’s clothing, multi-colored manes, and horned plaster masks.

Chunchachas

The Chunchachas are the only comparsa comprised entirely of women, who dance in twelve pairs. The origin of this dance reaches back to the Qosñipata Valley, at the entrance of the Manu National Park in the Southern Peruvian Amazon jungle. The Chunchachas represent the native communities of this area who would travel each year to Paucartambo to honor Carmen.

The dance was MIA in the festival for many years until the 1990s, when it made a comeback and is now one of the most coveted dances of Paucartambo. The women wear a type of Amazon crown, an ornate chest plate representing the Virgin Carmen, and two woven chuspas (purses) carrying wayruro seeds for good luck.

Qhapaq Negro

The Qhapaq Negro dancers pay homage to the former Afro-Peruvian slaves, who were brought over from the coast and Bolivia to work in the gold and silver mines in Paucartambo. As legend has it, these slaves already held la Virgen del Carmen in high regard before ever stepping foot in Paucartambo, which is why they are considered some of the most devoted dancers within the festival.

Qhapaq Negro dancers wear white billowy shirts, ornately embroidered colorful vests, pitch-black plaster masks, and a type of pillbox hat, also embroidered. They carry noisemakers and sing the most hauntingly beautiful melodies in both Quechua and Spanish, referencing their suffering as slaves and devotion to Carmen.

Qhapaq Chunchu

You may have noticed this is the third dance with the Quechua word Qhapaq, meaning “royal.” The Qhapaq Chunchu, the Qhapaq Qolla, and Qhapaq Negro are considered the most emblematic protagonists of the entire Paucartambo festival. The Qhapac Chunchu dancers represent native jungle communities, much like the Chunchachas.

This dance is unique because there are various roles cast amongst the dancers. You will be able to spot the “rey chunchu,” the king, and leader of the dance by his gold crown, in contrast to the feather crowns of the other Chunchus. There is also a kusillu (monkey) and a child known as the “reicito chunchu,” meaning the little king.

Maqta

Put simply, Maqta dancers are the loveable buffoon of the festival as an exaggerated caricature of the campesinos, or farm workers, of Peru. The dance originated in the department of Ayacucho, east of the department of Cusco and Peru’s folkloric heartland.

Maqta dancers weave through the festival in their own goofy dance and then wander off to play harmless tricks on unsuspecting onlookers. Sometimes they even launch into highly entertaining and dramatic monologues. Their costumes, bursting with color, consist of a chu’llo (earflap hat), a plaster mask sporting a joyful expression, a multi-colored vest, and a wool whip.

For these five days in Paucartambo, no one seems preoccupied with their worries, day jobs, or their “stuff.” Instead, sheer alegría (happiness) pulses through the crowds. All in all, if you choose to make the journey to Paucartambo, as part of your cusctom  Peru tour for this extraordinary celebration in mid-July, you are sure to leave your memories behind until you long to return, as the song goes…

It’s true that South America doesn’t have the best track record for welcoming and understanding the diverse scale of human gender identity and sexuality. This has been the case within both culture and politics due to religiosity’s strong current in South American society. The Catholic Church’s influence has made it very difficult for many in South America to reach an ultimately empathetic understanding of gender identity and sexuality.

The past two decades, however, have encouraged swift change and broader acceptance for members of the LGBTQ+ community through higher rates of immigration, global ideas circulating more freely, and government initiatives against hate crimes. Notably, countries like Uruguay and Argentina have become international leaders in the global human rights movement for LGBTQ+ inclusion and visibility.

If you are a member of the LGBTQ+ community looking to travel to South America and are a bit wary of the cultural climate (understandably so), consider adding one of the following most progressive and vibrant South American cities to your bucket list!

The Best Gay-Friendly Cities in South America

The list may not be very long for now, but it holds some very exciting destinations in South America. Bogotá, Santiago, and Buenos Aires are all bustling capital cities and home to such diverse communities. Río de Janeiro’s nickname says it all, it’s the “The Marvelous City,” and Iquitos, Peru, in the heart of the Amazon, is one of the world’s most unique cities only accessible by boat or plane!

1. Bogotá, Colombia

Welcome to the “Athens of South America!” As the third-largest city in South America and Colombia’s capital, Bogotá is home to some of its leading universities and libraries. From the Caribbean and Pacific coasts to the Andes and the Amazon, people from all corners of Colombia have gravitated to this academic hub and created the country’s most impressive melting pot.

More recently, Bogotá has also drawn international migrants and ex-pats. And these individuals from drastically different and diverse walks of life have helped encourage local grassroots movements and civil society organizations to speak up throughout Colombia!

Some groundbreaking milestones towards LGBTQ+ rights and visibility include: 1) in 2015, the right for trans individuals over 18 to legally change their gender on identification documents 2) in 2016 the right to same-sex marriage 3) in 2019, the election of Claudia López as Bogota’s first woman and openly lesbian mayor.

Be sure to check out the Chapinero neighborhood, home to just about one hundred gay-friendly bars, restaurants, and clubs. The two we would like to mention and highlight here are the Estación Café and Theatron, the largest LGBTQ+ club in Latin America. Aside from throwing internationally-known parties, Theatron also partners with local NGOs like Profamilia and Colombia Diversa in Colombia, continually fighting for LGBTQ+ rights and visibility.

2. Santiago, Chile

Considering the dreadfully dark days under the Pinochet dictatorship from 1973 to 1990, Chile has gained impressive ground towards LGBTQ+ rights and equality in a very short period. This past January 2020, the Chilean senate made history when they approved (22 votes in favor and 16 against) to legalize same-sex marriage.

Although parliamentary proceedings are still taking place to officially implement this law, the senate’s green light shows monumental solidarity from the Chilean government towards equal rights. Chile’s capital, Santiago, remains the heart of this solidarity.

For instance, the president’s central office called the Palacio de la Moneda dons bright rainbow colors on May 17th, the International Day Against Homophobia. On the whole, Santiago is such a vibrant and welcoming city. Still, it is worth noting that queer culture and nightlife are concentrated in the booming Bellavista neighborhood.

3. Río de Janeiro, Brazil

We want to make a special note that even with many national advancements in Brazil’s history towards LGBTQ+ rights, much of the country and culture is still not 100% safe for LGBTQ+ travelers. Pockets of the country have swung back towards conservatism since Jair Bolsonaro won the presidential election in 2018.

This said, same-sex marriage has been legal in Brazil since 2013, and despite the empty threats of Brazilian right-wing conservative Bolsonaro, it doesn’t appear this is going to change any time soon!

Brazilian LGBTQ+ rights groups have intelligently leaned on the Judiciary branch of government to win many important battles for the LGBTQ+ community. In doing so, they can sidestep the President and Congress. And so far, it’s working! As a result, many more people celebrate Pride every year with the same enthusiasm and joy as Carnival.

And there is no better example of this burgeoning progressive culture than in Brazil’s “Marvelous” city, Río de Janeiro! Río de Janeiro’s wonderfully campy and colorful Carnival and Pride celebrations, sprawling beaches, and exciting nightlife welcome all humans of every gender and sexual orientation.

Some specific spots to highlight and definitely check out are the famous beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana, where you can sip on caipirinhas, feel the sand between your toes, and mingle with like-minded individuals. Le Boy and The Week remain two of Rio de Janeiro’s premier gay nightclubs and Carnival and Pride, two of the city’s most explosive festivals!

4. Iquitos, Peru

Last year, Envy Peru made Peru’s LGBTQ+ community incredibly proud as the winner of Drag Race Holland, part of the international RuPaul’s Drag Race franchise. But even before her name lit up Peru’s drag scene, Iquitos’ queer culture has been welcoming in LGBTQ+ residents and travelers alike for as long as the city’s collective memory can recall.

Iquitos is a unique city in the Loreto region of Peru because it is the world’s largest city not accessible by road. When you arrive, you might not think of this rough and tumble jungle city filled with buzzing moto-cars, sprawling fish markets, and only a handful of major nightclubs as a gay hub. However, the truth is that LGBT individuals are visible and accepted within the city’s cultural fabric.

The vibrant LGBTQ+ community in Iquitos dates back to the 1980s, and 90’s when terrorism ravaged every corner of Peru. The Shining Path terrorist organization targeted many groups, and in particular, transgender and gay individuals, and prostitutes, were brutally mutilated and murdered. The isolated location of Iquitos proved to be a safe haven.

And continues to be a very safe place for gay and trans individuals to this day. Loreto was the very first Peruvian region to anti-discrimination laws for the LGBTQ+ community in 2010. Within Iquitos’ society, you won’t find “gay” or “straight” labels for restaurants, clubs, or parks; everyone is welcome in every space, and this is a given.

Even so, there are now quite a few specific areas of the city that have become gay hubs, especially for Peruvian members of the LGBTQ+ community traveling from more conservative corners of the country. Pampagay, for example, is the largest gay beach in Peru, and Copacabana club has some of the best drag in town!

5. Buenos Aires, Argentina

This brings us to the “Paris of South America!” As the first Latin American country to make same-sex marriage legal in 2010, it’s no surprise that Buenos Aires is considered one of the most accepting South American cities.

Alongside the right to same-sex marriage, the Argentine government recognizes essentially every familial right to same-sex couples, including the right to adopt. And in 2012, the Argentine government created and approved one of the most comprehensive transgender rights laws globally!

Transgender individuals have the right to legally change their name without being subjected to psychiatric, judicial, or medical procedures, and hormone therapy and gender confirmation surgery are legally covered within both public and private healthcare plans.

Definitely make sure to pass through the bohemian San Telmo market, and grab a drink at the Pride Café, in addition to the queer tango halls such as La Marshall and Tango Queer (also in San Telmo).

Of course, in addition to these five cities, you will find other welcoming pockets scattered through the entire continent. And thanks to cities like Bogotá, Santiago, Río de Janeiro, Iquitos, and Buenos Aires, these pockets are working their way towards a deeper understanding of LGBTQ+ rights, issues, and visibility.

Contact us to learn more about how you can customize your ideal journey to South America’s leading LGBTQ+ vacation hotspots, bespoke to your travel style, interests, and comfort!

Curious to know some facts about the Incas? Well, for starters, depending on your definition of “ancient,” you might be surprised to learn that the Incas reigned relatively recently, given the scope of human history. The height of the Inca Empire happens to be around the same time Johannes Guttenberg invented the printing press and when Europeans settled in North America.

These are just a couple of the many fascinating tidbits about the Incas that we want to share with you here. In this article, we take a deep dive into life during Tahuantinsuyo (the four corners of the Inca Empire) between the 15th and early 16th centuries. There are quite a few reasons the Incas managed to become the largest Pre-Columbian civilization in such a short period of time!

The 12 most interesting facts about the Incas

1. The Inca Empire only lasted for about one century

We don’t know precisely when Inca culture began to emerge; however, most scholars place it around the 13th century. There is even an exciting origin story and myth. The first Incas, Manco Capac and his sister (who also became his wife), Mama Ocllo, were brought to earth by the god Inti (the Sun god) and emerged together from the sacred waters of Lake Titicaca, near Isla del Sol (The Sun Island).

This said, through careful carbon dating at various Inca settlements, archaeologists believe the empire itself began to form around 1400 CE. So, when we talk about the Inca Empire, we refer to when the Incas transformed from one of the many dominant cultures in the Andes at that time to a conquering power that eventually ran from modern-day Argentina to modern-day Colombia.

Their glory as a reigning power was then abruptly cut short. First, through the arrival of an invisible enemy: smallpox. Smallpox most likely killed the eleventh Inca Huayna Capac, who died suddenly of a mysterious illness in 1528.

His death quickly sparked a civil war between his sons Atahualpa and Huáscar, which weakened the empire’s defenses, alongside the novel disease coursing through the population. These two factors eventually made way for the Spanish to successfully conquer the Incas in 1532.

2. The Incas didn’t have a written alphabet, but they had khipu

Quechua is, and always has been, a primarily spoken language. Since the Spanish conquest in the early-mid 16th century, scholars and linguists have actively developing a written Quechua language. They’ve used the Roman alphabet; however, even today, most modern spellings of Quechua words are contested.

So, how did the Incas manage to communicate large amounts of data (both quantitative and qualitative) over such a vast empire? They used an incredibly unique and intricate device called a khipu or quipu – using its other spelling. The khipu is a knot record utilizing the decimal system to convey information based on the number and type of knots presented on each string.

3. The Incas domesticated very few animals – llamas, alpacas, ducks, and guinea pigs

Much like other cultures predating European colonialism in the Americas, the Incas highly revered their domesticated animals. Llamas and alpacas were mainly considered pack animals but were also an ample source of wool and leather. Ducks and guinea pigs (much to the surprise of the western world) were mainly bred as a food source but were never the primary food source.

In fact, without llamas, the empire might not have expanded as it did. Llamas were indispensable for carrying large packs of highly coveted resources, like fish from the jungle at lower altitudes and potatoes (native to Peru), quinoa, and other highly nutritious agricultural products grown at higher altitudes. Put simply, the llama was their primary import and export vehicle.

4. The Incas were mostly vegan

The vegan lifestyle came relatively easy to the Incas. Guinea pig, or cuy in Quechua, was their main source of animal protein. Even then, cuy meat was reserved for special occasions. This is still reflected in modern-day Peruvian society, as most Peruvians only eat guinea pig during family celebrations and national holidays.

Even though the source of meat protein was slim, the Incas grew and harvested a plethora of incredible plants, which we now refer to as superfoods. These include over 4,000 varieties of potatoes, quinoa and amaranth (kiwicha), maca, purple corn, cacao, sacha inchi (the jungle “peanut” and rich source of Omega-3 fatty acids), and so much more!

5. The Incas respected complementary gender roles – no machismo

Most cultures predating the Spanish conquest presented and respected gender fluidity and upheld a complementary power structure between men, women, and individuals of a third gender (which is further broken down today as non-binary and trans individuals). The Incas were no exception to these cultural concepts of gender.

Two-spirit individuals, called Quariwarmi, were not only respected but also elevated in society as shamans because the Incas worshiped a dual-gendered god called chuqui chinchay. In addition, women were active members of society, primarily responsible for bartering and economic records for their families and communities.

6. The Incas had a unique communal concept called ayni

Certain aspects of Inca culture and society are still very much upheld and integrated into modern-day Andean society, and one such concept is ayni. Ayni is a beautiful Quechua word that translates to “today for you, tomorrow for me.” This word encompasses the concept that we all live in an interdependent society and that every individual must give before receiving.

During the Inca Empire, the concept of ayni was most reflected in rituals like pagos a tierra, in which shamans and witnesses gave various material and earthly goods back to Pachamama (Mother Earth). This was to honor and thank Pachamama for the great bounty she provided. To this day, pagos a la tierra are a common practice in Andean agricultural communities.

7. The Incas never had to worry about starvation

The shared concept of ayni made sure that no one ever went without food, in addition to the Incas’ intricate and advanced agricultural system and food preservation techniques. Much of this system even existed before the Inca Empire, as people in the Andes have been using innovative agricultural methods for about 8,000 years, such as vertical terraces built for polyculture.

Essentially, the Incas pooled together this wealth of agricultural knowledge from the peoples they conquered and made sure everyone was mutually taken care of. One such technique that prevailed during Inca times was refrigeration in round structures called qollcas. Qollcas were built from volcanic stone to keep the humidity out and regulate the cool temperature.

8. The Incas were imperialists

This may seem like an obvious point, considering we have been talking about their empire after all; however, the Incas were imperialists at the end of the day. Their main goal was to unite all as many individual peoples and cultures as possible under the overarching umbrella of their absolute rule.

It is easy to romanticize Inca civilization because of its obvious architectural accomplishments, agricultural innovations, gender inclusivity, and fascinating cosmology. They also differed from the Spanish and other later colonizing forces because their aim was not to change the people they “adopted” but instead incorporate each cultures’ individual strengths into their empire.

However, like any dominant group in human history, in some ways, they went too far. The Incas had to deal with more than one rebellion, especially in the jungle. Some people resisted the empire with everything they had.

9. The Incas never managed to fully conquer the jungle

To this day, most Quichua communities in modern-day Ecuador reject Incan heritage. They are not descendants of the Incas. And this makes sense, considering Ecuador was the Incas’ final frontier before their demise at the hands of the Spanish. They were also met with the most challenging resistance in Ecuador, particularly in the Amazon, where cultural commonalities were few.

This was also true in the Amazon jungle in other parts of the continent, where native cultures and communities already had their own pre-existing alliances and functional society, which differed significantly from that in the Andes.

10. The Incas believed in three realms or planes

The Incas based their religion around three realms or planes, represented by the following three animals: the condor, the puma, and the serpent. Hanan Pacha is the spirit world, guarded by the condor. The puma protects the earthly realm, called Kay Pacha, and the serpent belongs to the underworld, Uku Pacha. These three realms and animals are also referred to as the Inca Trilogy.

11. The Inca road system spanned 25,000 miles

The famous Inca Trail is but one very small (and impeccably restored) twenty-five-mile stretch of the Qhapaq Ñan – the 30,000-mile interconnected Inca roadway. The Qhapaq Ñan ran through Andean Mountain passes of almost 20,000 feet above sea level, all the way down to coastal lowlands, and was an indispensable feature of the empire for communication, defense, and trade.

12. The Incas planned their architecture in line with the cosmos

The Incas possessed a profound knowledge of astronomy and how human beings interact with the natural world to connect with the cosmos. Therefore, they carefully planned the positioning and designed every single structure concerning natural features and how those features play against the stars and planets.

For instance, Machu Picchu was built on the very top of a mountain surrounded by the Vilcanota River. Also, from certain vantage points within the Machu Picchu citadel, you can observe the alignment of the sun rising and setting over sacred Apus (mountain spirits) during the solstices and equinoxes.

If you’re feeling inspired by all of these fascinating aspects of Andean culture and tradition stemming from the Incas (and we hope you are), contact us today to start planning your own excursions through former Inca territories!

I love my job as a Kuoda Travel Designer and blog writer because I can continually write about and share fascinating aspects of Peruvian cultural traditions. And making the pilgrimage to Qoyllur Rit’i is one of those utterly unique experiences that will forever tie you to Peru in the most surprising way.

In this article, we want to share this festival’s intriguing history, guided by my own experience when I made the journey in 2012. Here, you will learn what to expect on the climb to Qoyllur Rit’i if you decide to incorporate it into your own itinerary. We hope to inspire some of you to consider this experience for yourselves during your bespoke journey to Peru.

What is the Qoyllur Rit’i festival?

Something everyone should understand before arriving in Peru is that it is a Catholic country. Still, it is very much a syncretic one, meaning that Andean cosmology and spiritual tradition live alongside Catholic belief. To this day, many vital rituals, ceremonies, and, in the case of Qoyllur Rit’i, pilgrimages celebrate Catholic figures and apus (mountain deities) and Pachamama (Mother Earth).

Put very bluntly, the Señor of Qoyllur Rit’i (the Lord of Qoyllur Rit’i) symbolizes Jesus Christ, even though the Quechua phrase Qoyllur Rit’i literally means “the snow star.” The great festival of Qoyllur Rit’i reflects the Catholic Church’s attempt to erase Andean cosmology in favor of Catholicism. But what actually happened is they inadvertently led the way for a contemporary syncretic belief system.

The origin story of this modern-day Peruvian pilgrimage goes something like this. In 1780, a supposed miracle occurred in the Cordillera Vilcanota of Peru, at the base of the range’s most impressive mountain glacier and apu: Ausangate. A young peasant boy named Mariano Mayta had been sent to tend his family’s llamas at this unlivable altitude.

Mariano nearly died when a young misti (a white boy) appeared to him wanting to play. They became fast friends, and the misti magically provided clothes, food, and comfort. Mariano wanted to thank his new friend, and so he went to the archbishop, who in turn desired verification of the misti’s existence.

When they finally arrived, the archbishop was astonished by the misti’s radiance. He leaned in to touch the boy’s arm and was left holding a crucifix. Mariano, shocked at what had happened to his new friend, died on the spot and was buried under a nearby rock.

It is important to note that this was around the same time as the last stand of Tupac Amaru II and his rebellion against the Spaniards, against Catholicism. It is also of note that this place on Ausangate previously held great spiritual significance for Quechua communities who worshiped the apus and Pachamama.

When and where is Qoyllur Rit’i celebrated?

The festival takes place in late May or early June, depending on the Andean calendar. I made the pilgrimage to the Ausangate glacial valley at almost 16,500 feet above sea level to pay homage to El Señor de Qoyllur Rit’i in early June 2012.

Every year, thousands of people trek for about 3-5 hours from the starting point at a town called Mahuayani to the sanctuary built in this misti’s honor (allegorically speaking in Jesus Christ’s honor) within the Ausangate glacial valley. There is a cross every two kilometers along the trail for the masses to stop, pray, dance, and sing.

Once at the sanctuary, the song and dance continue to radiate through the usually silent landscape for three days. More than thirty naciones (the name granted to each community) represent the vastly diverse Peruvian indigenous cultures including Quechua and Aymara-speaking communities. Believers do not underestimate the importance of trekking to Qoyllur Rit’i three consecutive times; because if one fails to do so, bad luck will fall upon their family.

How to arrive at the Qoyllur Rit’i snow star festival?

Bear in mind, my experience arriving at Qoyllur Rit’i was before I started working for Kuoda. So, if you book this festival through us, we will provide private transportation to Mahuayani and private tents with your private guide at every point of the journey. Nonetheless, this was my experience traveling like a local in 2012; and you will be sure to connect with many locals through your guide once you arrive.

We arrived at Mahuayani about four hours late on June 2nd, after waiting in Cusco, somewhat patiently, for the bus to fill every last seat. An overwhelming number of buses queued for a shocking number of people. Panchito, my music instructor and connection to the Hatun Q’eros Quechua community, flashed me a knowing grin of “this is how it is,” and began to yell the same call of desperate bus drivers, “MAHUAYANI, MAHUAYANI, MAHUAYANI QUINCE SOLES.”

I bought a bag of canchita (toasted Andean corn) while we waited. Then when the bus began to rapidly climb hundreds of meters, I traded the salty kernels for my ch’uspa (woven satchel bag) stocked with sacred coca leaves to fight the inevitable head pressure of soroche (altitude sickness).

By the time we arrived at the gateway town of the Ausangate glacial valley, the darkness had already disguised a stark highland landscape. We then weaved between tents upon tents of temporary vendors providing scalding caldo de gallina (hearty chicken soup) and tepid chicha morada (purple corn soft drink) prepared just a few hours before.

We finally made our way to the Hatun Q’eros camp, visible only by starlight. A double-voiced quena flute melody pierced the distance between our group of five urban dwellers and the Quechua community that had graciously invited us to join them.

The male elders of the community and two quena players recognized Panchito at once as he approached them, matching their melody with his own quena flute. I felt distinctly goofy in my extra-large snow pants, puff jacket, wool hat, and mittens; however, I was greeted just the same as the others.

The quenas and dancing feet did not rest that night. I watched Panchito and the other men in my group warm themselves through movement while anise liqueur and cane alcohol coursed through their bodies. Right then, a hand pulled me up into the dancing ukukus (the mythological man-bear and guardian of the festival). The hand was that of a Cusqueñan woman. Together, we watched the ukukus swirl around us, play and jest as a part of their adopted mythological persona.

The next day, just as the sun kissed the base of the mountain, we started our trek, stopping briefly every two kilometers at the designated crosses. Five hours and just over five miles later, we met thousands of others at the base of Ausangate.

Dancers, musicians, ukukus, children, and tourists alike had amassed in the glacial valley. They created transitory housing beneath tents and tarps. I felt the palpable energy emanating from the surrounding bodies and the apu spirit itself as we searched for an available square of space to lay our tarp.

What is the festival celebration like?

After settling in at the designated campsite, I began to note the many dances and rituals associated with El Señor de Qoyllur Rit’i, which are performed on-site within each nación. One of the most dominant of these rituals is called Yawarmayu, which in Quechua means “river of blood.”

Yawarmayu is the dance of the ukukus. You will recognize the ukukus by their shaggy “fur” made of multi-colored yarn and full head mask, mimicking a bear. They also carry a small plastic bottle around their necks to create a high and clear whistle sound, and most importantly, they don a whip.

For Yawarmayu, the whip is an essential prop, and the dance always proceeds in the same fashion. First, a pair of ukukus link arms and dance together forward and backward. Then a different melody marks the exchange of mock lashings, after which they continue to dance in a circle around each other.

When the tempo and excitement of the melody increases, they continuously lash one other and sometimes, although very rarely, draw actual blood. All the while, they laugh. Finally, a different ukuku breaks up the “fight” by jumping enthusiastically in the middle of the first two. It is pretty exciting and symbolizes honor, trust, and brotherhood.

I noticed the iglesia (the church) almost instantly. I decided not to enter because of the extremely long line and because I am not Catholic. However, it was enough to witness the deep devotion and faith of the crowds during mass. Everyone peeled off their chullos (ear-flap hats) and prayed as the bell chimed.

Meanwhile, at our camp, I noticed the Hatun Q’eros couldn’t care less about mass. Instead, every so often, a community member would pass around a bit of coca, anis liqueur, sugar cane alcohol, and cigarettes to honor Pachamama (Mother Earth). They did not enter the church, yet they represented an equally crucial spiritual faction in the festival at large.

After sunset that night, I partook in a bit of anis liqueur myself. I then snuggled as deep within my sleeping bag as I could manage before pulling another plastic tarp over my entire face and body. To this day, I have never slept so soundly or peacefully, despite the continual ruckus surrounding me. I wonder if Pachamama’s presence, the apu Ausangate, or Jesus Christ himself had anything to do with that.

If we have piqued your curiosity about Peruvian religion and culture and you are considering an exclusive tour to Peru in May or June 2022, we encourage you to make the journey through Mahuayani up into one of the few remaining Andean glaciers. The ukukus await you! To learn more about this Andean pilgrimage, we would be happy to help out in any way we can. Contact us!

Who was the peruvian singer Chabuca Granda?

Chabuca Granda blazed an eternal trail for female musicians throughout Latin America, especially for women in her home country, Peru. This, and the fact that she elevated creole culture, music, and legacy within Peruvian identity, makes her one of the most coveted Peruvian singer-songwriters to this day.

Música  criolla (creole music) took on a new meaning with Chabuca Granda’s early recordings in the 1950s. Peruvian music, like its culture, has always been highly diverse, with the melancholic melodies of the huayno dominating in the Andes and the Peruvian vals (waltz) reigning on the coast. Peruvian creole music centers around its unique waltz; and Chabuca Granda was the first to capture an international audience with her own unique interpretation of its thumping rhythm, delicate arpeggios, and deeply poetic lyrics.

1. Chabuca Granda’s early life

Born María Isabel Granda Larco in the mining district of Apurímac, Peru, in 1920, Chabuca’s musical destiny could not have been clearer. Her parents were both originally from Lima, and her father was a mining engineer stationed in the Cotabambas Auraria mine. When Granda was but three years old, her family moved back to Lima, and more specifically to the bohemian district of Barranco.

By being in Barranco, home to some of the country’s premier artists and musicians, Granda was able to begin her musical journey from an early age singing in her school’s choir, with plenty of talent to show for it.

Just after finishing her schooling in 1937, she joined forces with musician Pilar Mujica Álvarez Calderón in a duo called “Luz y sombra” (Light and Shadow). However, she would soon go off on her own to share her genius compositions that would change the course of the Peruvian waltz and marinera (another popular creole genre) forever.

2. What are the most popular songs by Chabuca Granda?

Chabuca Granda’s contribution to Peru’s music culture is both significant and prolific. However, two of her most eternal songs, hands down, are “La flor de la canela” (The Cinnamon Flower) and “Fina estampa” (Elegant Figure). The former is even considered one of the songs that most represents and encapsulates Peruvian identity today. The latter is a tribute to her father, Eduardo Antonio Granda San Bartolome.

Granda was inspired to write “La flor de la canela” by a dear childhood friend of hers, Victoria Angulo Castillo de Loyola, who was Afro-Peruvian. Granda described Castillo de Loyola as a humble but effortlessly graceful young woman who lived in Lima’s Rímac District.

The simple and intrinsically rhythmic action of Castillo de Loyola’s daily crossing the bridge De Palo (now known as the Santa Rosa Bridge) features significantly in the song. In this way, Granda paid homage to the grace and beauty she praised in Afro-Peruvian identity, even though she herself did not have Afro-Peruvian heritage. “La flor de la canela” is the most covered Peruvian vals by Peruvian and international musicians alike. It has become the Peruvian creole anthem.

3. Chabuca Granda’s acclaim throughout Latin America

Chabuca Granda captivated fans both within and outside of Peru. Initially touring throughout the capital cities of Latin America, and eventually spending some years in Argentina, México, and Spain. At this point in her career, her songs’ themes slowly started to evolve from the sensitive and poetic reflections of Peruvian culture at large to a call for social justice within the country, especially a call to action against the very real racism felt by the Afro-Peruvian community.

To this end, she performed and shared her genius compositions with the world and mentored countless young musicians wanting to follow in her footsteps, recognizing Creole folklore, both in music and dance within and outside of Peru. Granda also won two Latin Grammys through the course of her extensive musical career.

4. The living legacy

Of course, Granda is still referenced in contemporary Peruvian society, and you can often hear her songs soulfully streaming from cevichería speakers as you indulge in some of Lima’s freshest ceviche. But maybe even more significant are the musical relationships and inspiration she imparted to influential female criolla singers of younger generations, creating a living legacy that extends beyond herself.

Specifically, you could say both Susana Baca and Eva Ayllón (powerful singers in their own right) stemmed from Granda’s musical influence. Baca and Ayllón then took it a step further, incorporating their own Afro-Peruvian identities and intrinsically weaving them into their lyrics.

Chabuca Granda will forever live in Peru’s musical memory as not only one of the greats but, in many circles, the great! If you are a musician, or even just someone who carries a deep appreciation for the musical arts, make sure to visit the bohemian Barranco district in Lima.

Granda spent some of her most creative years in Barranco, and here you will find an eternal monument and boulevard in her honor: The Paseo Chabuca Granda. Feel free to contact us for more information about how to incorporate Barranco into your once-in-a-lifetime trip to Peru. In Barranco, you can personally pay homage to Granda, a female musician and activist before her time, who smashed the glass ceiling in Peru’s music scene.

 

Main Photo Source: miraflores.gob.pe

Did the Incas have a writing system? The surprising and peculiar answer is both yes and no. Quechua, the official Inca language and still one of Peru’s official languages, does not have a written counterpart. In other words, Quechua has always been a primarily oral language, resulting in ongoing academic discrepancy over its alphabet and spelling to this day.

Given these debates over the Quechua alphabet and linguistic analysis, there is more than one way to spell most Quechua words; and the word khipu, or quipu (using its other spelling), is no exception. But what is a khipu, and what does it have to do with the Inca writing system if they didn’t have an alphabet?

Put simply, a khipu is a “knot-record,” or a device that records and shares a vast array of complex information using hundreds of distinct knots. These knots are tied along vertical cords or strings and vary in color, shape, size, and sequencing. Therefore, as the Quechua alphabet is still up for debate, the khipu remains one of the Incas’ most fascinating inventions of communicative nature. Let’s learn more about the khipu, shall we?!

1. How did the khipu system function?

Looking at the intricately knotted khipu strings splayed out on a table or wall in its iconic arc shape, you might be surprised to learn about the complex quantitative and qualitative data locked away in such a cryptic package. Objectively speaking, khipus are quite beautiful. The khipu presents an ornate wall decoration to a modern untrained eye or even a ceremonial necklace (depending on the khipu’s size).

However, the khipu system itself actually revolved around a highly concrete mathematical understanding of decimal positioning. This means that each string in the khipu (upwards of 1500 strings in the larger khipus) was created and read in reference to the principal string, thereby representing individual numbers or units altogether. The largest decimal in the khipu is 10,000! These are often referred to as quantitative khipus and were mainly used for tax registration and censuses within the Inca Empire.

In addition to these khipus, however, archaeologists and linguists have deciphered and uncovered samples of narrative khipus. These qualitative khipus have proven much harder to crack; the numbered codes they contain could very well be references to people and places’ identity and even complex ideas, like philosophies and stories.

2. How did the khipus travel, and who read them?

Inca communication via khipus was not universally accessible. Not everyone in Inca society could assemble and read a khipu because this was generally reserved for someone called a khipukamayuq (knot-maker, or khipu master).

Khipukamayuqs (also spelled quipucamayoqs) traveled to different corners of the empire, collecting information first, then creating the khipus based on this information, and finally handing the khipus over to individuals called chaskis (also spelled chasquis), who were in charge of transporting the khipus and many whom could read and translate the particular khipus they carried.

And these chaskis could run. They ran through some of the world’s most extreme terrains – the Andes’ glacial peaks and mountain valleys. With the khipus hanging and swinging from each shoulder, the chaskis were some of the most vital and trusted individuals in the Inca Empire.

3. Are khipus unique to the Incas?

Khipus have been compared with other physical mathematic devices, such as the abacus. However, this system of knot writing is 100% unique to the cultures of the Andes. This said, it is a common misconception that khipus were initially devised and used by the Incas during their rise to power. The oldest khipu dates back to 5,000 years ago, proving that they were used by some of the large civilizations predating the Incas as well.

It is believed that the Inca contribution lies in refining the khipu and devising a much more sophisticated application and potential for communication. Considering the Incas also had a very intricate tax system put in place during their reign, khipus inevitably became a key component of their political and societal organization.

4. Where can you see the original khipus in Peru today?

There are upwards of 600 original khipus both in private and public collections – with many more being discovered all the time. They have been distributed between multiple museums throughout South America, North America, and Europe. However, if you are interested in learning more (we have just scratched the surface here), we recommend seeking them out in some of the following Peru museums.

In Lima, you can find original khipu in the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI), the Museo Larco, and the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología, e Historia de Peru. You can also get up close and personal with these knotted wonders in Cusco in the Museo MachuPicchu – Casa Concha, which also has many of the original artifacts found in Machu Picchu.

As much as we know about the khipu today through careful archaeological, linguistic, and mathematical analysis, there is still so much mystery tucked away in each knot sequence. Thought initially to primarily record and share numerical data, like censuses, statistics, and accounts, we now know they were also used to express abstract and creative thoughts, stories, narratives, and even philosophy. We just still don’t know how to read these Inca symbols represented through numerical knot sequencing.

Contact us today if you would like to visit one of these original khipus in person during your once-in-a-lifetime trip to Peru. You can ruminate on its meaning for yourself with the help of your expert private guide and bear witness to the most unique writing system in all of human history!

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